Objective. Students will install a lead or EPDM pipe boot, a curb-mounted skylight flashing kit, a parapet cap with through-wall scupper, and an expansion-joint cover on the appropriate substrate mock-ups, meeting manufacturer installation requirements.
This lesson, its worked examples and its practice questions has not yet been verified by a licensed professional engineer or master tradesperson or by a certification or approval body. It is a study draft and may contain errors. Do not use it as instructions for work on a job site or on live equipment. Always follow your instructor, your supervising professional, and current official references and regulations.
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Every pipe, skylight, parapet wall, and expansion joint that interrupts a continuous roof membrane is a potential leak point. Water finds gaps with remarkable efficiency—capillary action can draw moisture through a seam as small as a hairline. Flashing is the system of formed metal, rubber, or composite components that bridges the joint between the roof membrane and whatever passes through or abuts it. Doing it right the first time prevents structural rot, interior damage, mold growth, and costly callbacks.
A pipe boot (also called a pipe flashing or pipe collar) is a pre-formed sleeve that fits around a pipe and laps onto the surrounding roof surface to shed water away from the penetration. Boots come in lead and EPDM rubber as the most common materials on low-slope and steep-slope roofs.
Sizing is the first critical decision. The boot's inside diameter must match the pipe's outside diameter closely enough that the material can be compressed tightly against the pipe with a clamping ring (also called a draw band). A boot that is too large will not seal; one that is too small cannot be installed. Always read the manufacturer's sizing chart—do not guess.
Installation sequence for a pipe boot:
1. Clean the pipe surface and the roof deck or membrane in the work zone.
2. Slide the boot down over the pipe so the base flange lies flat on the membrane. The flange is typically set in a bed of compatible sealant and fastened to the deck through the membrane with roofing fasteners at the manufacturer's specified spacing.
3. Fold or press the boot collar snugly around the pipe.
4. Seat the clamping ring over the collar at the height specified by the manufacturer. Tighten the ring evenly to compress the rubber uniformly around the pipe—over-tightening can tear the boot; under-tightening allows water infiltration.
5. Apply a manufacturer-approved sealant bead at the top of the ring if specified.
Safety note: Lead boots require gloves and hand-washing discipline; wash hands thoroughly before eating or touching your face. EPDM boots may be supplied with adhesive primers—work in a ventilated area.
A curb-mounted skylight sits on a raised wood or metal frame called a curb. The curb must extend a minimum height above the finished roof surface as required by the skylight manufacturer and by applicable building codes—typically at least 4 inches for low-slope applications, though always confirm the specific manufacturer's requirement. An under-height curb traps debris and water against the skylight frame.
A curb-mount flashing kit is engineered by the skylight manufacturer to match that unit's dimensions. Do not mix components from different manufacturers or models. The kit normally includes: head flashing, sill flashing, step or side flashings, and a saddle or cricket flashing for the uphill side of larger units to divert water around the curb.
Installation sequence:
1. Confirm the curb is square, level side-to-side, and pitched correctly to drain.
2. Apply the sill flashing first (low side), then each side piece with proper lap—upper pieces always lap over lower pieces so water sheds outward.
3. Apply the head flashing last (high, uphill side).
4. Seal all laps and fastener heads with compatible sealant per manufacturer instructions.
5. Integrate flashing into the surrounding membrane or shingle system so water can never travel beneath the flashing base.
A parapet is a low wall at the roof edge. Water that accumulates on a flat or low-slope roof surrounded by parapets must be routed through the wall via a scupper—an opening lined with a formed metal or plastic sleeve that carries water through the parapet to a downspout or open discharge point.
The coping cap (also called a coping cover) is the cap that runs along the top of the parapet, protecting the wall from direct rainfall and directing water inward to the roof drain system rather than into the wall cavity. Coping sections are lapped for drainage: on a parapet that runs parallel to the slope, each uphill section laps over the downhill section so water flows across the lap, not into it. On a level run, caps lap in the direction of prevailing wind where possible.
Scupper openings must be sized to handle the roof drainage load. The sleeve is set in sealant, fastened, and then the membrane or base flashing is integrated around it so water entering the scupper cannot escape beneath the lining.
Buildings shift due to thermal expansion, seismic movement, and structural loading. An expansion joint is a designed gap that allows controlled movement without cracking the structure. On a roof, that gap must be covered with a prefabricated expansion-joint cover—a flexible, bellows-style or flat cover assembly—that can move with the building while remaining watertight.
The cover is attached to blocking or nailers on each side of the gap, not across the gap itself. Fasteners go into the flanges on each side; the center bellows or flexible membrane bridges the gap freely. Adhesive is sometimes used in addition to mechanical fasteners per the manufacturer's instructions. Never caulk or rigidly adhere both sides of an expansion joint—that defeats its purpose and causes the cover to tear.
A low-pressure garden-hose water test simulates wind-driven rain. Observe from inside or mark wet spots on top with tape. Common failure causes include: boot not sealed at the base flange, clamping ring under-tightened, flashing laps reversed (water runs beneath the upper piece), insufficient sealant at scupper penetration, or expansion-joint cover fastened rigidly across the gap. For any leak, stop water flow, dry the area, identify the exact entry point, make the repair per manufacturer instructions, and retest.
Wear safety glasses and gloves at all stations. On elevated mock-ups, maintain three points of contact and use fall protection as directed by the instructor. Keep the work area clear of trip hazards. When using sealants or adhesives, follow the product's SDS requirements for ventilation and skin/eye protection.
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
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