Objective. Students will diagnose ignition failures and burner performance problems on gas ranges by testing spark ignition modules, hot-surface igniters, and gas valve coils, and will safely replace a defective component after proper energy isolation.
This lesson, its worked examples and its practice questions has not yet been verified by a credentialed professional in the field or by a certification or approval body. It is a study draft and may contain errors. Do not use it as instructions for work on a job site or on live equipment. Always follow your instructor, your supervising professional, and current official references and regulations.
VoTechWorks program approval and accreditation are still in progress. Credentials are issued only by the certifying bodies named in each program, after their own exams.
A residential gas range combines two energy sources: natural gas (or LP) for the flame and 120 V AC electricity to run igniters, safety valves, and controls. Understanding how those two systems interact is the foundation of every diagnosis you will make on this equipment.
Gas flows from the supply line through a main shutoff, then through individual burner or bake/broil valves to the burner head or oven burner. The valve only opens when the control knob is turned; on oven burners with electronic ignition, many valves also require a signal from the ignition module before they will pass gas. This dual-interlock design prevents raw gas from flowing if ignition is not confirmed.
Spark ignition (surface burners): When you turn a surface-burner knob, the spark module senses the switched voltage and fires all surface electrodes simultaneously at roughly 10,000–15,000 V at very low current. The clicking you hear is normal. Once the burner lights, the module stops sparking. A typical fault pattern is one burner clicks but will not light: check the electrode tip for carbon buildup or a cracked ceramic, and check the igniter wire connection. If no burners click, suspect the module itself or its power feed.
Hot-surface ignition (oven burners): An oven hot-surface igniter (HSI) is a silicon carbide or silicon nitride element wired in series with the gas valve coil. When the oven calls for heat, 120 V energizes the igniter. As it heats to orange-hot (roughly 2,500 °F surface temperature), its resistance drops and current through the circuit rises. The valve coil requires a minimum current to open—commonly in the range of 3.2–3.6 A, though always verify against the manufacturer's tech sheet. When current reaches that threshold, the valve opens, gas reaches the igniter, and the burner lights. If the igniter is weak or cracked, it draws insufficient current, the valve never opens, and the oven does not heat—even though the igniter may still glow faintly.
This is why a clamp meter measuring current draw is the correct diagnostic tool for an HSI circuit. A multimeter reading resistance alone will not reliably predict whether the igniter can pull enough current under load.
The gas valve coil is an electromagnet that lifts a diaphragm or plunger to allow gas flow. A coil can develop high resistance or an open circuit from heat cycling over time. Disconnect power, isolate the gas, and measure coil resistance with a digital multimeter across the coil terminals. Compare your reading to the manufacturer's specification on the tech sheet. An open circuit (OL on the meter) means the coil is failed. Elevated resistance means it may work intermittently or may not allow full valve opening. Replace the valve assembly as a unit; field coil repair is not a recognized service procedure.
A clogged or misaligned orifice produces a lazy, yellow-tipped, or uneven flame. The orifice is a precisely sized brass fitting; never enlarge it with a drill or wire. Clean it by blowing compressed air through it or by soaking in a mild cleaner. Confirm the burner cap is seated correctly after cleaning—misalignment alone can cause incomplete combustion or ignition failure.
Before any component replacement, you must isolate both energy sources:
1. Electrical: Unplug the range or open and lock the branch-circuit breaker. Apply your personal lockout device and tag.
2. Gas: Close the individual appliance shutoff valve. Confirm closure by attempting ignition after electrical isolation—no gas should flow. Place a tag on the gas valve.
Do not rely on the knob being in the OFF position as a substitute for closing the supply shutoff. Always follow your facility's written lockout/tagout procedure.
Every time you disconnect and reconnect a gas fitting, you must verify the joint for leaks before restoring operation. Use a combustible-gas leak detector (electronic sniffer) and approved liquid leak-detection solution. Bubbles or an audible alarm indicate a leak.
If you detect a leak you cannot correct, do not restore gas service. Shut the supply valve, tag it out, notify the supervisor or instructor, and document the condition. In a customer's home this is a mandatory reporting situation; many jurisdictions require you to inform the customer in writing and, in some cases, notify the gas utility. Never leave a leaking appliance in service.
1. Gather the wiring diagram and manufacturer tech sheet before touching the appliance.
2. Observe and record the symptom with power and gas on (observe only—do not probe live gas components).
3. Perform lockout/tagout on both energy sources.
4. Test components in the order dictated by the circuit: igniter current, then valve coil resistance, then electrode condition, then orifice condition.
5. Replace the defective part, reassemble, restore energy in the reverse order of isolation.
6. Verify ignition operation, then perform a full leak check on every disturbed fitting.
7. Document the fault found, part replaced, and leak-check result.
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
A free tech program — complimentary, as our commitment to get America working. Help us build VoTechWorks. Tell us what works, what doesn’t, and what you want to learn.
Does the school offer financial aid?
No. We don’t offer financial aid because we’re free. No, really: completely free.
Do you offer industry certification?
No. We are not certified yet, so we can’t offer that to students. What we do offer is knowledge and understanding of a trade.
Enroll first in the trade you’re interested in. You get your key, your program opens, and you begin studying.
Enroll free →